Free Crochet Pattern: Caramel Corn Slipper Socks

ILikeCrochet Free Pattern

Time to slide around in your fashionably stockinged feet! Because they are worked from toe to heel, these socks are a great first pair for someone who has never attempted crocheted socks before.
This pattern was featured in I Like Crochet Oct 2017 (photo credit to, and now that I can release it--I wanted to share it with YOU! 
The yarn is from Cascade Yarns: Heritage 150 Prints and you'll only need one skein. I love the variety of colors, and this one is perfect for the fall, isn't it!?! The prints are so cool and do the striping for you.
Let's talk about crocheting socks. Does that just sound scary to you? I used to run from sock yarn. Seriously, RUN! I didn't want to even try--I just didn't know where to begin. Then one day, I found the perfect yarn I wanted to use...isn't that how it always works? The yarn gets bossy and inspiring. I don't know what came over me that day but I decided to do my research and forward a few years, I picked up my hook and designed a few pairs myself! I like to break it down so that even beginners can make them. Trust me--it's not hard!
These are made from the TOE UP, and all that means is that the heel is easier that way...either way-it's not 'hard'. So, just take it section by section-- and work your way up to the leg cuff and wa-lah! You're done! I had read a blog one time that said, "Make two if you have two feet", and that just cracked me up. So, in the spirit of socks... just make 2! 
Without further delay, let's make your socks!
Skill Level: Intermediate
Size: 6” length toe to foot, 2½” tall heel, 3” long leg, ½” long cuff
Gauge: 20 sts and 20 rows = 4” [10 cm] in sc in the round
Materials:Yarn: Cascade Yarns Heritage 150 Prints (75% Merino, 25% Nylon; 492 yards [450 meters]/150 grams): #9 Tabby, 1 skeinHook: US size D/3 (3.25mm)Notions: Yarn needle; stitch markers
Notes: Each sock is worked from toe to cuff.Mark the first stitch of round with a stitch marker.To make the sock larger or smaller, adjust gauge by using a smaller or larger hook to naturally change size.

To Begin:
Ch 18, sl st to first ch to join.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 24 sc in ring, sl st to first st to join – 24 sts.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, *sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around, sl st to first st to join – 30 sts.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, *sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around, sl st to first st to join – 36 sts.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, *sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around, sl st to first st to join – 42 sts.


Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each st around, do not join.
Rnds 2-30: Working in continuous rounds, sc in each st.
Note: You can make the sock longer or shorter by increasing or decreasing rnds here.


Rows 1-9: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 21 sts.
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog, sc3tog, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts – 17 sts.
Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog, sc3tog, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts, turn, sl st to first st of row to join – 13 sts. This will leave an opening that will be sewn together to finish.


Rnd 1: Ch 1, use the end of rows as edges, sc in next 11 sts, sc in next 21 sts across top of Foot, sc in next 11 sts on opposite edge, sl st to the first st to join – 43 sts.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in each st around, do not join – 44 sts.
Rnds 3-16: Working in the rnd, sc in each st, sl st to first st of the last rnd to join.
Note: You can make the leg longer by adding more rows before working Cuff.


Rnds 1-2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), *fpdc, bpdc; rep from * around, sl st to the first st to join.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, *fpsc, bpsc; rep from * around, sl st to the first st to join. Fasten off.


Using tapestry needle, sew the heel and toe together.
Weave in all ends.

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